ISO 22195-1:2023

ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Date:2022-11-01
ISO TC 38/WG31
Date: 2022-10-18
Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from coloured textile — Part 1: Madder

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ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
© ISO 2022
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation,
no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on the internet or an intranet,
without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address
below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
Email: copyright@iso.org
Website: www.iso.orgwww.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

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ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Contents
Foreword . iv
Introduction . v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 1
5 Reagent . 2
6 Apparatus . 2
7 Procedure . 2
7.1 Standard preparation . 2
7.2 Preparation of test specimen . 2
7.3 Analysis . 3
7.4 Determination and calculation . 3
7.4.1 Determination of alizarin . 3
7.4.2 Calibration curve . 3
7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin . 3
8 Test report . 3
Annex A (informative) Example of test result . 5
A.1 Analysis of madder colourant . 5
A.1.1 General . 5
A.1.2 Chromatographic conditions for the LC-MS . 5
A.1.3 Chromatographic conditions for the HPLC-DAD . 6
A.1.4 Chromatographic conditions for the GC-MS . 6
A.2 Analysis of coloured fabric with madder colourant . 7
A.2.1 Chromatographic conditions for the LC-MS . 7
A.2.2 Determination example of index ingredient of madder colourant from coloured
fabric . 8
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved iii

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ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
A.2.3 Chromatographic conditions for the GC-MS . 8
A.2.4 Determination example of index ingredient of madder colourant from coloured
fabric . 9

Foreword . iv
Introduction . v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 2
5 Reagent . 2
6 Apparatus . 2
7 Procedure . 2
7.1 Standard preparation . 2
7.2 Preparation of test specimen . 2
7.3 Analysis . 3
7.4 Determination and calculation . 3
7.4.1 Determination of alizarin. 3
7.4.2 Calibration curve . 3
7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin . 3
8 Test report . 3
Annex A (informative) Example of test result . 5


iv © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

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ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national
standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally
carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a
technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee.
International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in
the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all
matters of electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directiveswww.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patentswww.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the
World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.htmlwww.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 22195-1:2020), which has been
technically revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— changed extraction solvent from co-solvent to single organic solvent;
— added GC-MS analysis method for the detection and qualification of index material.
A list of all parts in the ISO 22195 series can be found on the ISO website.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at
www.iso.org/members.htmlwww.iso.org/members.html.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved v

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ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Introduction
There is no doubt that dyeing plays the most important role in expressing the colour of clothes. Until
the invention of synthetic dyes capable of expressing diverse colours, materials obtained from nature to
dye fabric have been used. Typically, colourants were obtained from plants or various materials were
extracted from minerals or insects. When dyeing fabrics using materials derived from these natural
substances, it becomes necessary to identify which substances the colourant was derived from. In other
words, there has been a demand to confirm whether a fabric is dyed using a natural substance.
A test method is developed to identify which types of natural substances have been used.
vi © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

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FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL
...

FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 22195-1
ISO/TC 38
Textiles — Determination of index
Secretariat: SAC
ingredient from coloured textile —
Voting begins on:
2022-11-15
Part 1:
Voting terminates on:
Madder
2023-01-10
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
DOCUMENTATION.
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO-
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN-
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2022

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ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 22195-1
ISO/TC 38
Textiles — Determination of index
Secretariat: SAC
ingredient from coloured textile —
Voting begins on:
Part 1:
Voting terminates on:
Madder
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2022
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on
the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below
or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
ISO copyright office
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
DOCUMENTATION.
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
Email: copyright@iso.org
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO-
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Website: www.iso.org
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
Published in Switzerland
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN-
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
ii
  © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2022

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ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
Introduction .v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 2
5 Reagent . 2
6 Apparatus . 2
7 Procedure .2
7.1 Standard preparation . 2
7.2 Preparation of test specimen . 2
7.3 Analysis . 3
7.4 Determination and calculation . 3
7.4.1 Determination of alizarin . 3
7.4.2 Calibration curve. 3
7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin . 3
8 Test report . 4
Annex A (informative) Example of test result . 5
iii
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

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ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to
the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 22195-1:2020), which has been technically
revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— changed extraction solvent from co-solvent to single organic solvent;
— added GC-MS analysis method for the detection and qualification of index material.
A list of all parts in the ISO 22195 series can be found on the ISO website.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
iv
  © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Introduction
There is no doubt that dyeing plays the most important role in expressing the colour of clothes. Until
the invention of synthetic dyes capable of expressing diverse colours, materials obtained from nature
to dye fabric have been used. Typically, colourants were obtained from plants or various materials were
extracted from minerals or insects. When dyeing fabrics using materials derived from these natural
substances, it becomes necessary to identify which substances the colourant was derived from. In other
words, there has been a demand to confirm whether a fabric is dyed using a natural substance.
A test method is developed to identify which types of natural substances have been used.
v
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

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FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from
coloured textile —
Part 1:
Madder
1 Scope
This document specifies a test method which determines the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured
fabric with madder.
2 Normative references
The following document is referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use — Specification and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
madder
common name for Rubia which is a genus of flowerin
...